Often the term “handmade” can mean fabric is guided by hand and sewn by machine. But in the case of our new luxury dress shirts, “handmade” means “sewn by hand” at each and every step of the way.
Hall Madden Chicago is excited to offer these to our clients for the first time ever.
The fabric is cut one at a time by hand. Pattern matching is done by hand. The collar, hems, seams, pick stitching, button attachment and even buttonholes are done by hand. Monograms? By hand, too.
The armhole, where the shirt receives the most stress, is double stitched. First, by hand to gather the fabric and set it properly, then by machine to reinforce it. Extra attention is also given to pressing and ironing the shirt at each stage of sewing rather than at the end. It takes more time, however, it benefits the construction process greatly.
The immediate benefits of a hand-sewn and hand-pressed shirt might not be apparent to most at first glance, but when you examine closer and wear one it feels different. First, you’ll notice the seams feel softer to the touch. The lines are cleaner and patterns on the fabric line up perfectly.
Each shirt takes approximately 35 hours to produce. A single buttonhole alone can take up to 45 minutes, featuring a 100 individual stitches. Compared side-by-side with a machined shirt, the difference is clearly visible.
Naturally, we’re using only our best fabrics with this new line of bespoke dress shirts. We’ve sourced Thomas Mason, Canclini, Alumno and Albini fabrics from Italy to match the high precision craftsmanship of these hand-sewn shirts.
We invite you to try them for yourself at your next visit to our Chicago Loop studio.