Bespoke Design Details by Hall Madden
Take a look at a few design details not often found on your basic Made-To-Measure garment.
The commissioned garment had a request for a 14cm wide peak lapel inspired by Tom Ford. Luckily, the client had the gravitas to pull off a garment like this. Paired with a heavyweight 340gr flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico in a dove grey chalkstripe, the wider stripes compliment the broad lapels.
The turnback cuff — also called a “cocktail cuff” — has a slight rounded edge to it and turns up the last inch or so of the jacket. This detail is never found “off the rack” in ready-to-wear garments because it would hinder altering the sleeve length. With our bespoke range, we can offer precise and exact sleeves lengths for each client that allows us to do a turnback and functioning “surgeon’s cuffs”. Matched with a crisp white custom dress shirt this styling is classic cool. Remember to leave the first button opened.
While this style is a bit 80’s, when done with the right the lines can be very clean. We did a low button stance so the weightier lapel had better drape. The formation also emphasizes the client’s chest in a strong “V” to make the shoulders broader and the waistline slimmer.
Higher waistband styles with pleats and side adjusters are becoming popular again. When done right, the look can be very sophisticated. Custom bespoke menswear is moving towards a less minimal and slim fitting garment and more Sean Connery-esque James Bond. The trouser is designed to be worn higher on the waist than modern trousers. And the added flap coin pocket is a small detail with a vintage flair.
Engineered from plant cellulose, this liner material is more slippery than silk and also more breathable, too. A playful design adds a bit of whimsy to the jacket’s interior without trying to overshadow the bold chalkstripe fabric.
We are beginning to offer clients the opportunity to work with our new bespoke service that allows details and styling limited only by your imagination. Going beyond made-to-measure, we are now able to offer greater flexibility and a hand-made paper pattern for each client and either a basted garment or test suit fitting. For those who truly want the height of what can be offered in a custom suit, this is it.