custom shirt

Scott R. in Zegna Trofeo Summer Cloth Bespoke Custom Suit & Thomas Mason Cloth Shirt

Scott R. is wearing a bespoke 2pc custom suit made with Zegna Trofeo Summer cloth. His shirt was made of a sturdy white cotton from Thomas Mason cloth. He was fitted by Andrew in the San Francisco Fit Studio.

Photographer: @lukaspiatekphotography | Hotel Venue: @jwloscabos | Ceremony & Reception: @acrebaja | Planning company: karlacasillasandco | Assigned Head Planner: @ameliaakarlacasillas | Dress: ruedeseinebridal | Ceremony/reception decor & florals: maineventcabo

Sourcing the Top Fabric; Albini Group Is One of Italy's Finest Mills

Go behind the scenes of the Albini Group’s Mill in Albino Italy just outside Bergamo and see what makes the world’s greatest cotton for dress shirts.

McGregor Madden and Enrico De Pieri in the vault. These fabric collections can be over 150 years old. It’s nice to see that while there has been massive innovation in the way cloth is made - a lot of the styles that were popular then are still popular now.

McGregor Madden and Enrico De Pieri in the vault. These fabric collections can be over 150 years old. It’s nice to see that while there has been massive innovation in the way cloth is made - a lot of the styles that were popular then are still popular now.

Sourcing Stories: The “Kings of Cotton”

It’s milled in Italy, but why are Egyptian-cotton fibres so sought after?

When the founder of modern day Egypt, King Mohammed Ali, brought with him seeds from Brazil (cotton & linen) and the Caribbean (cotton and linen) in the early 1800s - he found that in the Nile River Delta farmers were able to grow the longest, finest and softest cotton fibres. Long fibres make it easier and thus more cost efficient to produce. Ancient Egyptians were growing cotton and linen since antiquity and the new seeds yielded global leading results.

Extra-long fibres also make for a more durable garment. And the most noticeable benefit? The supremely soft “hand” touch. Think of extra-long staple fibers in cotton as the cashmere of shirting fibres. This is why Egyptian cotton is considered “the cotton of kings.”

The entrepreneurs of the Albini family as well as U.K. businessman Thomas Mason started sourcing the fibres from Egypt in the 1800s and the rest is history. More than a century of innovation has yielded the results you see today. When Albini Group purchased Thomas Mason more scale was reached. A lot of the workers are second or even third generational employees. The knowledge is not easily transferrable and passed down through the firm’s institutional knowledge.

Today the Albini Group leases thousands of acres from the Egyptian government to ensure they can provide sustainable farming and ethical development working conditions for the people. It is a win-win for Hall Madden to be able to source shirting fabric from Albini. Our clients receive the best cotton and linen shirts and Albini can continue their mission to create the best fabrics.

In this photo McGregor is shown the capacity speeds that super long fibres produce and also what happens when one thread breaks. He also learned first hand on how to repair.

What kind of innovation has their been since computers?

In the “old days” mills would have to create their own swatch books and samples by glueing different pieces together to create just one swatch. This time intensive practice made it very difficult to scale out the business. Tailors would travel by boat to global locations. You would be lucky to see your bespoke garments in 6-12 months.

This is why in the past you didn’t see a lot of checks, but mostly solids and stripes. Making a check swatch was nearly impossible at the time.

Recently, Albini has harkened back to the old days of bespoke tailoring by making it easy to make one-off garments. When a client commissions a shirt the fabric, for which there are over thousands to choose from, is cut and shipped to our factory the next business day and arrives in as little as three days.

Why did we go visit Albini?

Well first off we are friends of the brand. We are also the fastest growing made-to-measure client they have ever had. For this visit, Albini Group wanted to spend time showing off their new sustainability and organic cotton initiatives — values we share with them. They also proudly unveiled their new women’s collection that we will be releasing in conjunction with our soon to be launched women’s line in the fall. Hall Madden will be the first U.S. brand to carry the women’s collection.

When you commission a garment from Hall Madden using Thomas Mason or Albini cotton you are not buying it, you are not wearing it, you are simply taking care of it.
— Enrico De Pieri, Albini Group Director

View more images from Albini Mill

Business Casual Shirt Cloth

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Hall Madden custom dress shirts come in a variety of different cloths and styles. Take a look at some of our favorite styles of cloth perfect for business casual.

 

Jersey: Think of your favorite knit polo shirt. The same soft fabric is now available as a custom shirt. Some slight stretch combined with a melange yarn makes this a perfect casual shirt under a sport coat (think: cotton, linen) or on its own with a pair of chinos.

Seersucker: Ignore the images of preppy striped summer suits for a moment and think about the wonderful texture as a shirt with very wearable stripes. Perfect for humid days when you still need a proper dress shirt.

Denim Lino: Take the relaxed nature of your favorite jeans, weave it from linen instead of cotton, and combine a custom fit for the perfect shirt that looks great and will develop a unique faded character over time. Just like jeans, these are available in different “washes”, too.

Balmoral: Imagine your favorite cashmere scarf made into a dress shirt. These fabrics blend the perfect mix of high-end cotton with cashmere to make the softest shirt you’ll ever wear — and in a weight that’s appropriate for summer.

 

Thomas Mason 1796 Bespoke Custom Shirting

 

Hall Madden is proud to announce that we are one a few selected custom clothing businesses in the world to carry this prestigious collection in its entirety.

 
Hall Madden X Thomas Mason 1796 Bespoke Collection

Hall Madden X Thomas Mason 1796 Bespoke Collection

British inspired, with a touch of eccentricity, Thomas Mason Bespoke collection is characterized by double twisted fabrics, crafted using only the finest yarns from the extra-long staple Egyptian cotton.

Founded in Lancashire in 1796 by entrepreneur Thomas Mason, the eponymous label has been a landmark for elegance and quality, in the world of English shirting traditions.
Acquired by Albini Group in 1992, Thomas Mason reinterprets its rich heritage in a modern and original way, through precious and colourful double twisted fabrics, crafted using the exceptional Giza 45 and Giza 87 Egyptian cotton and the refined linen from Normandy.

Hall Madden has been working directly with Albini Group since 2018.


Questions about Thomas Mason fabric or our custom shirt program? Call (872)228-9910 or email support@hallmadden.com to speak with us.


Zegna Anteprima SS19 now at Hall Madden

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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA X HALL MADDEN SS19

ZEGNA ANTEPRIMA SS19

SS19 bespoke cloth from Ermenegildo Zegna Mill

Angelo W. in custom tuxedo suit and shirt

Custom burgundy paisley tuxedo jacket paired with VBC 130s black tuxedo trousers.

Jon & Jason in Loro Piana Winter Tasmanian Sharkskin Bespoke Suits

Custom Emerald Green Blazer and Suit

A surprisingly frequent request from new Hall Madden clients is an emerald green suit or blazer. While most suiting and jacketing fabrics are shades of grey, blue and brown, green — especially in an emerald jewel tone — is quite uncommon from fabric mills.

A Chicago client, David R., liked this Super 120s birdseye wool fabric from Pallazo. This italian emerald green wool is year-round in weight (220g/m) and has a slight bit of texture to give it some shine. It’s slightly brighter than the famous Master’s Golf Tournament green jacket.

For design, the emerald jacket has a peak lapel, two-button closure with horn buttons, and slanted “hacking” flap pockets and a ticket pocket with dual rear vents. As an emerald green blazer, David has a wide range of options on how to wear it with Hall Madden custom dress shirts.

First, with a crisp white French-cuffed shirt and glen-plaid grey odd trousers for a more dressed-up look, finished off with a white linen pocket square.

Next, David wears the emerald green blazer jacket with a dark-navy, wide-striped dress shirt and white denim and a navy dotted silk pocket square.

Finally, for the most casual look, the emerald green blazer is worn with a light blue shirt and dark denim blue jeans.

We also envision that as a full suit in emerald green, this fabric could be paired quite easily with a lavender shirt or even a black merino polo turtleneck sweater.

Available as a blazer ($1150) or full suit ($1400) custom-made by Hall Madden.

An Interview with Washington DC's Lead Fit Specialist Claire Butler

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Washington, D.C.'s Best Menswear Designer

an interview with Claire Butler, Washington, D.C.'s Lead Fit Specialist 

What’s your background in menswear?

My experience in menswear began with my tenure at Polo Ralph Lauren. During my 6 years with the company, I worked on Blue Label and Black Label brands for product categories including woven shirts, roughwear and outerwear. Working for such a large and iconic company, gave me the opportunity to experience textile sourcing and production from all over Europe and Asia. The design and quality driven brand principles were embodied in the artisanal development of beautiful and luxurious raw materials.  

What are some common mistakes guys make when selecting a suit in terms of fit?

I find that a lot of younger men want to be on trend with a slimmer, more modern cut in their suits. The mistakes becomes evident when the cut is too extreme. They lose the timeless appeal of the suit and cross over into wearing a suit that simply is too tight and too small for their body.  

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What are some of your favorite fabrics for suits?

Any fabric with cashmere! Even the smallest percentage of cashmere blended into a fabric instantly elevates the elegance factor.  Cashmere is lightweight, breathable, warm and creates a lush hand feel for any garment. 

What are three key tailored clothing pieces that should be in a guy’s wardrobe besides the classic dark worsted wool suit?

First, a great fitting navy blazer is a versatility piece for any man's wardrobe. Wear it with jeans, chinos, or grey trousers for a more casual day at the office or weekend wear. It's a garment any guy will go to grab out of his closet time and time again. 

Next, a beautifully tailored white shirt. A white shirt can be worn as a separate for more casual wear or under any color suit. Well tailored shirts always enhance the look and fit of a suit jacket, while also maintaining a polished silhouette when a man removes his jacket.

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Finally, for a colder climate like D.C., a classic and well-fitting overcoat is essential. An overcoat constructed from quality materials, such as cashmere or alpaca, will withstand harsh elements and frequent wear. It is the piece that encompasses fit, style and functionality to complete his look during colder months. 

Why Hall Madden?

A team of truly knowledgeable and supportive people who strive to make all our clients look and feel amazing. Hall Madden is a company with office locations in major cities across the country, yet the culture is that of a close and encouraging family. It is truly a unique and wonderful experience. I also took this position very seriously because of the year long training I undertook and the apprenticing factor. 

What’s your thoughts on men’s style in DC?

The general style of D.C. men is classic and understated. The color palettes are more muted and reserved. The men of D.C. do put an emphasis on their style and outward appearance; they want to look good. Classic, yet refined is what D.C. men's style is all about. 


To learn more about the Washington DC fit studio or Book a fitting please visit our DC page.