Bespoke Design Details by Hall Madden
Take a look at a few design details not often found on your basic Made-To-Measure garment.
The commissioned garment had a request for a 14cm wide peak lapel inspired by Tom Ford. Luckily, the client had the gravitas to pull off a garment like this. Paired with a heavyweight 340gr flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico in a dove grey chalkstripe, the wider stripes compliment the broad lapels.
The turnback cuff — also called a “cocktail cuff” — has a slight rounded edge to it and turns up the last inch or so of the jacket. This detail is never found “off the rack” in ready-to-wear garments because it would hinder altering the sleeve length. With our bespoke range, we can offer precise and exact sleeves lengths for each client that allows us to do a turnback and functioning “surgeon’s cuffs”. Matched with a crisp white custom dress shirt this styling is classic cool. Remember to leave the first button opened.
While this style is a bit 80’s, when done with the right the lines can be very clean. We did a low button stance so the weightier lapel had better drape. The formation also emphasizes the client’s chest in a strong “V” to make the shoulders broader and the waistline slimmer.
Higher waistband styles with pleats and side adjusters are becoming popular again. When done right, the look can be very sophisticated. Custom bespoke menswear is moving towards a less minimal and slim fitting garment and more Sean Connery-esque James Bond. The trouser is designed to be worn higher on the waist than modern trousers. And the added flap coin pocket is a small detail with a vintage flair.
Engineered from plant cellulose, this liner material is more slippery than silk and also more breathable, too. A playful design adds a bit of whimsy to the jacket’s interior without trying to overshadow the bold chalkstripe fabric.
We are beginning to offer clients the opportunity to work with our new bespoke service that allows details and styling limited only by your imagination. Going beyond made-to-measure, we are now able to offer greater flexibility and a hand-made paper pattern for each client and either a basted garment or test suit fitting. For those who truly want the height of what can be offered in a custom suit, this is it.
Traveling Tailor : A service for clients who cannot come see us in-person or do not reside near a fit studio. Hall Madden will travel to nationwide locations.
One of our fit specialists will come to your office, home or event and perform an in-person fitting. We also can do group fittings for offices or a groom’s party. We bring the same attention to detail as we would at any of our studio locations.
Our team of fitters work together nationwide to deliver meaningful garments. This means diligently recording things like measuring into account which type of slope and shoulder construction for you or if you are of stooped or erect postures. It’s why our clients for nearly a decade have always returned for our expertise.
During your first fitting we will measure you and put you into one of our many template suits. We want to see how fabric interacts with your body and how to best cut the fabric per your posture and style. We will then take more point-to-point measurements and make many different adjustments to our fit tools.
Much like custom suits, our custom shirts use a template fitting. And before we cut your order, we make you a test shirt you’ll be able to try on first. This helps us achieve the perfect fit and make you confident in your custom shirt purchase. The test shirt is complimentary and you’ll be able to keep it, too.
Custom liners, pocket pipings, pocket styles, buttons, stitch color, monograms, contrasting fabric under the collar and much more are available standard to all clients. Overwhelmed? Let us help you pick what we know will look great. And if you want to go understated, we can do that, too. It’s your garment.
Re-ordering is easier than ever. After your fit check, we’ll perform any alterations needed and updated your pattern on file. In the future you’ll only need to pick fabric and design. You can even order remotely via email or text. Our fit specialists remember your preferences and can email you swatches they know you’ll love to round out the wardrobe.
We don’t view clients with a “one and done” attitude. We cultivate a relationship over years and begin with that thought in mind. We don’t want to simply sell you a suit — we want to be providers of the pieces of your wardrobe you wear the most often. The greatest compliment we can receive is, “I wear this suit all the time and I love it.”