Handwork details
Handwork is a key sign of a high-quality, durable suit. Machines can mimic some stitches, but they can’t match the flexibility and precision of true hand stitching, which can be adjusted with every stitch.
In our different makes, certain details are sewn by hand. Below is a guide to the hand-finished details you’ll find in our suits.
Under collar attachment
The under collar sits on top of the jacket’s outer fabric and is usually attached with a machine zigzag stitch. In our handmade suits, it’s sewn on by hand. This subtle detail lets the collar sit smoothly along your neck and shoulders, reducing tension and improving the fit.
Collar turn back
The collar turn-back is the small strip of fabric wrapped around the under collar, only seen when you flip your collar up. It’s rare today and often overlooked, but it’s a hallmark of a well-made suit.
It lets you subtly adjust the collar angle and helps hide a contrasting under collar when the jacket is worn. The edge is finished with fine hand-sewn cross stitches.
Flower loop
A flower loop, or boutonnière loop, is a hand-sewn detail found on high-end and vintage (pre-1950s) suits.
Its job is simple: it holds a flower securely on your lapel for a tuxedo or wedding suit. It’s made by hand using purl stitches wrapped around the thread, something machines can’t do.
Chest pocket
A handmade chest pocket is a subtle show of craftsmanship. It appears to float on the jacket, with stitches hidden under the edges so you don’t see a single seam—just a clean, elegant line.
Pick stitching (1/2)
Pick stitching is crafted using a single thread and needle, primarily to secure the internal seams and prevent the edges of a jacket—such as the lapel or collar—from turning.
Historically, this single-thread, single-needle stitch could only be executed by hand. While machines were eventually developed to imitate it (like the slow-running AMF machine or the faster Columbia, which leaves a visible chain on the back), handmade pick stitching remains the superior choice.
Pick stitching (2/2)
Handmade pick stitching is far more refined and visible than any machine-made imitation. Each handcrafted stitch lies neatly on the fabric as a small dot, and this characteristic beauty is why genuine hand-stitched pick stitching is so highly valued.
Cuff fold finish
There are two techniques for finishing the corner inside your cuff. In the easier version, a diagonal seam is visible and excess fabric cut away, so lengthening the sleeve becomes difficult for a tailor. In this version, the sartorial version, the cuff has a fold and is finished with hand stitching. The fold gives body to the top vent and will afford you the option of lengthening the sleeve, should this be desired in future.
Bottom facing/hem
The small edge of fabric found inside the bottom of your jacket, where the facing and the hem meet. This is finished by hand, so the lining can still be attached with a fold. The hand finishing allows more leeway in the lining and lowers stress on the garment when using the pockets, which gives the jacket more shape and durability.
Bartacks
A bartack is a stitch used to reinforce vulnerable points in a suit. In spots where the fabric is prone to wear and tear, a bartack is stitched to help secure the area. It’s a small detail that when done by hand will set your jacket apart from those with clean machine-made bartacks.
Lining at the armhole
To keep your jacket lining in place it is attached to the outer fabric in certain points. The armhole is one of these points. As you can imagine, a handmade stitch is more loosely stitched than a machine’s and allows a skilled tailor to adjust the tension with every single stitch. With this approach, hand finishing provides more movement of the arm, almost as if there were stretch added to the lining.
Lining at the hem (cuff & bottom 1/2)
In our handmade suits, the lining is attached by hand in multiple places to ensure even more comfort and movability. Not only the armhole, but the cuff hem and bottom hem too.
Lining at the hem (cuff & bottom 2/2)
Button attachment
Buttons have been attached by hand in all our makes. Why? Have a look at the backside of our button attachment, it is the most clean finish you will find out there. There is no machine that can imitate this. Next to it, our buttons have a shank, something that can only be done by winding around by hand. The shank makes for easy fastening of a button, and strengthens the attachment and lifespan of a button.
Buttonholes
Handmade buttonholes are a thing of beauty. In the hands of a skilled tailor, they can really make a jacket stand out among the rest. A machine-made buttonhole only takes 5 seconds, whereas a handmade buttonhole takes even the best tailor around 10 minutes to finish. Properly sewn, they add a level of detail you will be proud of.
Label attachement
To truly emphasise the beauty of a label it should be attached by hand. The cross stitches where the edges of a label are attached to the lining accentuate the sartorial prestige of the jacket and the brand.
Handwork for our Handmade in Italy only suits
Our handmade in Italy suits take 2+ months to make and cost $5k+
Gorge line (Handmade in Italy only *HMIT*)
The gorge line is where the collar and lapel meet. On our Handmade in Italy jackets, this point is finished entirely by hand. No fusing or glue is used at the gorge, so the fabric stays pure, supple, and naturally expressive – a detail normally found only in the most exclusive suiting.
Pad stitched lapel (HMIT only)
Hand pad-stitched lapels are available exclusively in our Handmade in Italy atelier. A skilled tailor secures the canvas to the back of the lapel using countless tiny, blind V-stitches. This time-intensive technique builds structure and memory into the cloth, giving the lapel its fullest, most luxurious roll.
Sleeve insertion (HMIT only)
A hand-set sleeve is the best-set sleeve. In our Handmade in Italy make, each sleeve is shaped and eased into the armhole by hand so the natural fullness is distributed exactly where it’s needed. This gives the sleeve a clean, elegant fall and superior comfort. Once positioned, the seam is secured by machine for added strength and durability.
Lining everywhere - collar, side vents (HMIT only)
On our Handmade in Italy jackets, the lining is set almost entirely by hand. Beyond the armhole, cuff, and hem, it’s also hand-attached along the shoulder seam, under the collar, and at the side vents. Only the long side and center-back seams are sewn by machine. This meticulous handwork lets the lining move with your body, maximizing comfort, fluidity, and ease of movement.
Hanger loop (HMIT only)
In our Handmade in Italy line, even the hanger loop is finished in a sartorial way. Secured with two hand-applied stitches at each end, it’s discreet yet strong enough to hang your jacket anywhere you happen to be.