Custom Suits

Our suit fitting process

We offer two levels of service: "Made-to-Measure" and "Bespoke"

"Made-to-Measure" is our more basic option. After the first appointment, the client's suit is made immediately and basic alterations are provided upon the second fitting. This is our standard service for our in-house fabrics ($950-1400 2-piece suit). 

"Bespoke" is our advanced service to provide the best fitting final garment we can make. After the first appointment, a trial suit is made for the client to test the custom pattern. After the trial suit fitting, a further round of adjustments to the pattern can be made before making the final suit. This service is provided gratis for all cut-length Zegna and Loro Piana suits ($1750-4000), or for a $350 fee on any of our in-house fabrics. The final suit is made completely by hand to maximize drape. 

Our "Bespoke" service is ideal for new clients who are difficult to fit, including athletic and corpulent body types that would typically have issues finding suits off the rack. Your fit specialist will consult with you during the fitting if it is the right service for you. For any repeat order we can continue to look at fit and make adjustments to the pattern. 

 

"Made-to-Measure"

First appointment (60 minutes): Get measured and fitted. We use templates as a starting point for your suit and determine what adjustments to perform to the suit's pattern to fit properly. Then you pick your fabric and design the finer details.

**IMPORTANT: Come ready to make final decisions. If you require your fiancée, wife or friend's consultation, then make sure they are at your appointment.** 

Second fitting (20 minutes): After your suit is made, come back to the studio to try the suit on and see what -- if any -- final adjustments are necessary. Alterations provided include:

  • Jacket sleeve length
  • Jacket waist/seat taper
  • Trouser waist/seat
  • Trousers length

This is performed gratis and ready in about one week. Changes to your pattern are recorded and saved for future orders. 

Final pickup (15 minutes): Try on your suit to double-check and leave with your garment and a handshake from your fit specialist. 

 

 

"Bespoke"

First appointment (60 minutes): Get measured and fitted. We use templates as a starting point for your suit and determine what adjustments to perform to the suit's pattern to fit properly. Then you pick your fabric and design the finer details. 

**IMPORTANT: Come ready to make final decisions. If you require your fiancée, wife or friend's consultation, then make sure they are at your appointment.** 

Trial suit fitting (30 minutes): Once your trial suit arrives in 2-3 weeks, you'll revisit our studio to try it on and we take a further look at what additional adjustments are needed to perfect your pattern before making your final suit. These adjustments include:

  • Jacket sleeve length & taper
  • Jacket waist/seat taper
  • Jacket button stance
  • Jacket length
  • Jacket shoulder position & slope
  • Jacket posture
  • Trousers waist/seat
  • Trouser hip/thigh/knee/ankle taper
  • Trouser length
  • Trouser rise & crotch height

Adjustments to your pattern are recorded and production begins on your final suit.

Final pickup (15 minutes): Your finished suit will arrive in another 3 weeks, ready for you to wear. If a subtle alteration is needed we can perform this gratis. Leave with your garment and a handshake from your fit specialist. 

Timeline: Plan ahead. We prefer a total of 8 weeks from start to finish for first time clients. This gives us enough time to do a second fitting, make adjustments and work around everyone's schedule without any pressure. Book your appointment early and don't procrastinate. Repeat orders take about 4 weeks.

Note: We use the same process for blazers, trousers, tuxedos, and overcoats. Clients don't need to be refit for future orders -- unless they've experienced weight changes. We can always provide updates to your fit pattern for new orders, just remember to bring your first garment. 



Our suit pricing

Pricing is simple: number of pieces (2 or 3) and the fabric collection. We don't nickel and dime you or make it complicated. And we don't charge you for alterations you suit needs during your second fitting. Our prices are all in, all the time.

  • Entry level - $950-$1000: Year-round weight fabric, woven in Italy from Super 110s/120s grade wool. Perfect for guys who need to build up their professional wardrobe with durable fabrics to be worn hard. We also suggest adding an additional trouser to extend the life of the suit. 
     
  • The step up - $1400-$1800: Our Italian sourced collection of Super 150s wool suiting with special events and weddings in mind. Softer and lighter hand in a wider range beyond the basics. Our best value and often chosen to be worn as a 3-piece. 
     
  • Luxury heritage mills - $1750-$3000: The names say it all to men who know of and demand wearing the best available: Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna. Fabrics woven with exclusive superfine Australian and New Zealand wool and blended occasionally with cashmere or silk. Pick from seasonal or perennial collections. We also upgrade suit construction to "handmade" to give more attention to these premiere collections of fabrics as they are sewn to achieve the best drape and fit for their unique properties. An incredible value alongside the perfect fit. 

Note: "entry level" and "step up" pricing does not include "bespoke" service". 



Our suit quality

Suits are a complex garment with a lot of components, which means there are a lot of choices to make about the quality of construction and materials used. We took the easy approach: use the best available to make the best. 

All "Made-to-Measure" and "Bespoke" suits include:

  • Full floating canvas construction: a horsehair interlining "floats" in between the suit's chest. This gives the jacket it's drape, molds to the wearer, shapes the roll of the jacket's lapels, and contributes immensely to the proper fit of the jacket that only gets better with time. 
     
  • Three shoulder options: Our German-made wool shoulder pads provide the character of the jacket. Opt for a traditional pad for your standard formal suit. A soft shoulder can be slightly casual and more comfortable. Or choose no padding at all for a deconstructed look that will express your shoulder line for as it truly is. 
     
  • Reinforced stitching: Look close and you'll notice these under-the-radar details. Bar tack stitching reinforces the jacket pockets and trouser waistband. Stitching transforms fabric into a garment and we insist it be of high quality. 
     
  • Buttons & lining: We offer genuine horn buttons standard. For lining, we provide Bemberg (also called "cupro") for the most superior breathability, durability, and frictionless touch. 
     
  • Fabric: We procure our fabrics directly from the mills we've chosen to partner with for our suits. This decision came after years of trying various merchants and wholesalers. In the end, we decided to take a trip to Italy and build relationships face to face with those providing us the most beautiful and reliable fabrics we vetted. And our clients benefit directly from our sourcing to get fabric at an incredible value. 

In addition to above, "Bespoke" suits include the following extra craftsmanship:

  • Buttonholes & buttons are hand-sewn with "crow's foot" stitching
  • Jacket's collar is attached by hand
  • Jacket lining is hand-sewn in the armhole and shoulder seam
  • Jacket features a curved "barchetta" breast pocket
  • Trouser interior waistband features hand-made box-pleat for comfort


Our fit philosophy

A lot of advice is online about "how a suit should fit", but most of it is written by people who have never worked in the business. Some of the advice is good and commonsense, some of it applies only to a few people with a certain body type, and some of it is outright wrong. At Hall Madden we have a few guiding principles on fit. 

Fit starts with your body, not a picture of someone else's suit. Our suits are made to fit who you are and the shape of your body. How a suit drapes on a model or celebrity in a photo can be very different to how it drapes on you. We acknowledge your body as the framework from which we begin and seek to fit it in the best possible way. 

Drape over "slim fit". We get it: you don't want to look like you're dressed in a rental two sizes too big. But on the flip side, cutting a suit skin-tight doesn't look good, either. We seek balance and want the cloth to fall and drape naturally over your body. We seek clean lines, room to move and fabric that isn't straining or creasing unnaturally.