Poplin, often referred to as broadcloth, is Poplin, often referred to as broadcloth, is a tightly woven fabric with a very simple over-under weave and very little sheen, which makes it nice and professional. Usually a thinner and lighter material, white broadcloth fabrics in particular can be slightly transparent. Broadcloths are great for anyone looking for as little texture as possible in their shirt fabric. Thanks to this lack of texture, they generally wear the smoothest out of all weaves, but can be prone to wrinkling.

Pros

• Lightweight

• Wears smoothly

• Professional look

Twill is an extremely tight weave that can come in very high thread counts, some of which might be mistaken for silk. Easily recognisable by their diagonal weave, the effect can range from very fine, subtle twills to much larger Imperial or Cavalry twills. The diagonal texture means twill is a bit softer than weaves like broadcloth, so will drape more easily. It is relatively easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles too. This fabric will almost always have a bit of shine, though the degree can depend on the weave, colour and cotton used.

Pros

• Soft with an easy drape

• Easy to iron and resistant to wrinkles

Herringbone shirts are textured shirts, popular for both dress and casual wear. It is essentially a twill that is mirrored when woven to create the sort of chevron, ‘V-shaped’ look. The fabric’s name comes from its resemblance to the bones of a herring fish.

Pros

• Fine detail of weave

• Versatile in wear

Chambray is a plain weave fabric with a similar look to broadcloth, though generally made with heavier yarns for a more relaxed appeal. Usually the weave has white threads running in the weft (horizontal direction), which gives the fabric an inconsistent colour. This could be compared to a fil-à-fil fabric, though chambray is generally much heavier and more appropriate for casual or work wear than formal dress.

Pros

• Durable

• Relaxed, casual appeal

Dobby can vary widely. Some versions are quite similar to broadcloth in terms of thickness and weight, while others can be thicker or even woven to look almost like twill. The weave structure used produces a slight stretch. Many dobby fabrics will have stripes woven into them. Although sometimes the fabric can be solid in colour, even those will still tend to have a faint stripe or dotted patterns woven in the same colour as the base cloth.

Pros

• Slight stretch

• Weave allows for solid colour or stripes

Gingham is a simple, checked fabric in which vertical and horizontal stripes of equal width intersect to make a checkerboard-like design. Gingham patterns can be both large and small-scale – generally, the larger the pattern, the more casual the shirt. The bigger they are, the louder and more aggressive they will feel; making somewhat larger checks great sporty shirts for the weekends when worn with jeans. Smaller Gingham checks can be business appropriate, though they will still feel more casual than conservative stripes or solid patterns.

Pros

• Warm and soft to wear

• More casual

Houndstooth is a symmetrical, multi-coloured, broken check pattern. It can be distinguished from other similar types of check by its jagged edges, formed by twill lines that flare out from the sides of the pattern’s squares. Houndstooth is sometimes referred to as pied-de-poule or ‘foot of a chicken’ in French – another image the jagged pattern is thought to resemble. It is a classic pattern but not necessarily everybody’s cup of tea. With a busy print like this, you do have to be somewhat careful when pairing with other garments, especially in different colours, patterns or textures.

Pros

• Bold, casual look

An autumn and winter favourite, flannels are warm, fuzzy fabrics that are most often brushed twill or brushed poplin. While flannel fabrics are most commonly 100% cotton, they can sometimes come in cotton-wool and even cotton cashmere-blends for added warmth. Usually made in thicker weaves, these are decidedly casual fabrics that are great for cold weather.

Pros

• Warm and soft to wear

• Casual look

Giro Inglese, Italian for honeycomb, is an openwork fabric with a weave pattern that bares resemblance to the geometric structure of knitted pique fabrics. It has a particular texture where the warp and weft threads move around and across each other to produce open work effects that resemble knitted fabrics. Giro Inglese is a light and airy fabric, ideally suited for summer and refined leisure shirts and jackets.

Pros

• Breathable

• Casual look

Jersey is a single knit fabric that is quite elastic and known for draping well. Shirts with this fabric can be worn all year round, as the knit construction is light and flexible, yet warm and isolating at the same time. Jersey has a very casual allure and is not appropriate for dressing up.

Pros

• Drapes well

• Light yet warm

Fil-à-fil or ‘end-to-end’ poplins are a very popular type of dress shirt fabric with distinct contrast colouring. Woven with a coloured warp thread and white weft thread, it looks like a true solid fabric from a distance, but has more texture when seen up close. Typically a lighter weight fabric, it is a great choice for those living in warmer climates that like a little visual interest in their shirts.

Pros

• Lightweight

• Subtle texture

We all know denim as the fabric of our jeans – but a lot of people don’t know that it’s actually a twill fabric. Construction-wise, our jeans are a sturdy, sometimes coarser twill weave, often dyed with indigo. However, when it comes to denim shirting, you will mostly find much softer, lighter versions of the fabric. Though denim shirting can come in many forms, it will generally have a different colour on the inside than the outside. The fabric is also known for its unique tendency to change colour with washing, wear and tear.

Pros

• Durable

• Unique colour change over time

Oxford is a very popular shirting fabric. Originally developed for sportswear, it is our least dressy option and (in some circles) not considered appropriate for office or formal wear. A bit thicker than what we would consider ‘fine’ dress shirt fabrics, Oxford has a hearty feel that is both durable and naturally resistant to wrinkles.

Pros

• Durable

• Wrinkle resistant

Sometimes simply referred to as ‘pinpoint’, this fabric has the same weave structure as Oxford cloth (above), but uses a finer yarn and tighter weave. Pinpoint fabrics are more formal than Oxford but less formal than broadcloth or twill. Think of them as great everyday work shirts, but not necessarily the first choice for special events. Pinpoints are slightly heavier and thicker than broadcloths and so are less likely to be transparent. The heavier construction also means they are fairly durable fabrics too.

Pros

• Can be worn both casually and formally

• Durable

• Not transparent

Royal Oxford is what we call a ‘pretty fabric’. Although the name is similar, it is completely different to pinpoint Oxford or Oxford cloth. This is a dressy fabric with a distinct shine and texture. The cloth’s elaborate weave produces a great shine and unique, significant texture. Royal Oxford fabric is also well known for its softness – the way the weave makes the yarns puff out feels cushy and nice.

Pros

• High shine

• Pleasing softness

Seersucker is a fabric primarily known for its puckered appearance and popularity in summer. The distinctive puckered look is created after it is woven in the finishing of the fabric. The added space promotes airflow, making seersucker very comfortable to wear in warm weather. While seersucker fabrics can come in any colour or pattern, blue striped seersucker is our most popular option.

Pros

• Casual look

• Breathable and perfect for warm weather

Pique is a knit-construction characterised by its geometric pattern, often compared to the structure of a waffle or honeycomb. Pique fabrics are typically easy to care for and add subtle interest and texture to a garment. The fabric is versatile; used in both sportswear and polo shirts worn for fashion purposes, as well as formal cotton shirt fabrics for white tie events. Of course, it is the style of the shirting that makes it suitable for one or the other.

Pros

• Stretchable fabric

• Versatile in wear

Zephyr is a lightweight version of the gingham fabric. It was developed by the company David & John Anderson towards the end of the 19th century when David Anderson was trying to define a much finer quality of fabric than the typical and fairly ordinary ‘ gingham’. The name he chose was Zephyr, meaning the very light and gentle wind.

Pros

• Lightweight

• Casual look

A type of textile weave, satin is somewhat shinier than the average poplin weave. The weave is most classically used with silk thread, though it can also be used with other materials. It is more lustrous and gives an exclusive look. Satin shirts work well under a jacket or in informal evening settings.

Pros

• Shiny

• Exclusive look

Cutaway

Semi-Cutaway

Wide Spread

Extreme Wide Spread

Wide Spread Round

Classic

Classic Round

Button Down

Button Down (Small)

Hidden Button Down

Kent

Tab

Wingtip

Mao

One Piece

Rounded

Adjustable Rounded

Angled

Adjustable Angled

French Cuff (Round)

French Cuff (Square)

French Cuff (Angled)

The hand stitches that attach all the different seams in the shirt (such as the shoulder, armhole and collar seams) do more than look nice. They also bring a great deal of extra comfort to your shirt. A handmade stitch is more flexible than a machine stitch and can be adjusted with every single stitch – there’s no machine setting like it. Due to the looser tension, handmade stitching feels as though your handmade shirt has extra stretch, giving you more comfort and room to move.

This little handmade bartack, also called ‘Travetta’ in Italian, can be found at the top edge of the sleeve vent. Aside from being a sign of a high quality handmade shirt, the bartack is there to reinforce the vent from tearing.

Buttons have been attached by hand in all our makes. Why? Have a look at the backside of our button attachment; it is the cleanest finish you will find out there. There is no machine that can imitate this. Next to it, our buttons have a shank, something that can only be done by winding around by hand. The shank makes for easy fastening of a button, and strengthens the attachment and lifespan of a button.

Handmade buttonholes are a thing of beauty. In the hands of a skilled tailor, they can really make a shirt stand out among the rest. A machine-made buttonhole only takes 5 seconds, whereas a handmade buttonhole takes even the best tailor around 10 minutes to finish. Properly sewn, they add a level of detail you will be proud of.

The hand rolled hem: one of most beautiful details on a handmade shirt for the connoisseurs. Instead of folding the hem flat twice and stitching through with a machine, this hem is rolled gently by hand and loosely stitched to finish the shirt off in style.

The hand stitches that attach all the different seams in the shirt (such as the shoulder, armhole and collar seams) do more than look nice. They also bring a great deal of extra comfort to your shirt. A handmade stitch is more flexible than a machine stitch and can be adjusted with every single stitch – there’s no machine setting like it. Due to the looser tension, handmade stitching feels as though your handmade shirt has extra stretch, giving you more comfort and room to move.

The hand stitches that attach all the different seams in the shirt (such as the shoulder, armhole and collar seams) do more than look nice. They also bring a great deal of extra comfort to your shirt. A handmade stitch is more flexible than a machine stitch and can be adjusted with every single stitch – there’s no machine setting like it. Due to the looser tension, handmade stitching feels as though your handmade shirt has extra stretch, giving you more comfort and room to move.

The hand stitches that attach all the different seams in the shirt (such as the shoulder, armhole and collar seams) do more than look nice. They also bring a great deal of extra comfort to your shirt. A handmade stitch is more flexible than a machine stitch and can be adjusted with every single stitch – there’s no machine setting like it. Due to the looser tension, handmade stitching feels as though your handmade shirt has extra stretch, giving you more comfort and room to move.

A handmade side seam gusset resembles a little cushion on the side of your shirt – a beautiful detail you will only find on sartorial handmade shirts. It will ensure your side seam will not tear if it gets stuck behind something

To truly emphasise the beauty of a label it should be attached by hand. The cross stitches where the edges of a label are attached to the fabric accentuate the sartorial prestige of the shirt and the brand