Hall Madden opens new showroom in Houston
An interview with our general manager in Houston
Hall Madden proudly announces the opening of our eighth showroom and our first in Texas with our Montrose District location in Houston. To ensure our Houston clients receive the best expertise and fit, our former Chicago showroom director and current general manager, Kiyoshi, will run the location full time. Kiyoshi has a decade-long experience in custom clothing and is Hall Madden’s most senior fit specialist outside of the founders. But most importantly, he loves helping his clients build their wardrobes and hone their personal style. We’ve asked him a few questions about menswear and what’s next.
What’s been the biggest change for men’s style in the last few years?
About three years ago, the thinking was men would swing heavily toward the ultra casual with WFH becoming a norm. Then a year or so ago, there was a theory that men were tired of dressing in just sweats and would return to formal dressing. And now we find ourselves actually somewhere in the middle of those extremes. The most important change, however, isn’t what’s being worn but moreso the confidence men have about their own sense of style and willingness to experiment. We’ve all gone through internal reflection and our clothing is a representation of how we want to be perceived. I think our clients are more thoughtful of what they’re wearing and want their wardrobe to fit their lives rather than check the boxes of what magazines and “experts” tell them they should own. A big example of this is how Hall Madden’s changed it’s definition from “dress shirts” to “shirts” — or really just “tops” — thru introducing long and short sleeve polos in 4 different type of fabrics and custom Italian knitwear that ranges from a crewneck sweater to a T-shirt. They’re truly technologically incredible and comfortable — no side seams and entirely 3-D knitted to order. You can look just as polished and professional without resorting to the typical dress shirt — but you don’t have to look like you’re coming from a gym either. And these pieces go with more than just tailoring, too.
Any changes in approach for tailoring for clients in Houston versus Chicago?
While each client has his own preferences and a unique lifestyle, in general there are a few guidelines I’d recommend when putting together the details for a garment in this warmer and more humid climate. First, if you can have your garment be slightly more casual than a typical business suit, then you have some fantastic possibilities open to you. We have some new “informal” jacket styles that work as a great layer when a sport coat might be too formal. They are deconstructed and modeled after French chore coats, military utility jackets and the classic Ivy sack blazer.
But if you want to go the traditional tailoring route, I’d start at the shoulder and chest of the jacket. I’d recommend a lighter canvas chest piece and an unstructured shoulder. Removing these layers will lighten up the jacket quite a bit. Then, I’d recommend half or quarter lining, to improve the airflow through the jacket. Finally, while you don’t have to go super casual in the fabric — like using linen or seersucker — I’d look at tropical wool blends or open-weave fabrics that tend to run cooler than your typical sharkskins or twill worsted wools. There’s always going to be trade-offs, but that’s the advice and consultation I like to provide when helping a client make a decision right for them and how they’ll wear the suit.
How’s your personal style changed after moving to Houston from Chicago?
Even before moving, during the past year I’ve really enjoyed combining our tailored jackets with our custom jeans and finishing them off with a pair of boots. I’ve yet to find a top layer that’s more practical than a sport coat or blazer and still looks professional — and I’ve experimented quite a bit. But when it comes to pants, I’ve always found jeans to be the most natural and comfortable to wear. I love how they fade and tell a story about your lifestyle over time. I used to wear raw denim, but now I’ve converted to our stretch Italian denim. It’s just more comfortable for travel.
On the feet, boots are the finishing touch with jeans. They complete the look in a way that lace-ups don’t quite match up. But as it’s summertime, I’ve switched overto loafers, which I also prefer with a suit. I think the largest change for my style though would be color palette. I wore a lot of black in Chicago, it just felt right amongst the architecture of the city. In Houston, I’m more interested in light blues and natural earth tones of tan, brown and off-white. I’m a big believer that your clothing should reflect your environment.
If you could recommend one type of cloth for a sport coat to clients in Houston, what would it be?"
In general, I’d start by pointing everyone toward a wool-silk-linen blend. Wool gives you crease resistance and breathability and structure. Linen gives you durability and that slubby texture and wicks moisture well. And silk just adds a bit of softness against the roughness of linen — and it takes color quite well, too. We have different variations on this blend from a lot of mills, but Loro Piana is my favorite and have a wide range of solids and patterns each year. Guys just fall in love with it when it arrives.
I’m going to cheat and add one more: bamboo. It’s maybe more suited for milder temperatures, but it’s another winner that clients have told me they wear all the time. It drapes wonderfully and feels as soft as cashmere for a fraction of the price and is a lot more durable. Best of all, it comes in some of the best colors no matter your personality.
Appointments are currently available for the Houston showroom, beginning on June 6th.
