Why Hall Madden? Fit, Fabric & Craftsmanship.
Hall Madden Spring/Summer 2024 Collection
Fit: nothing else matters without a beautiful drape
Work with the industry’s best trained experts in your private appointment.
Here’s how your custom jacket and trouser should fit:
Front
The shoulder line should be proportional to the your frame. Your jacket should button at the narrowest (or widest in some cases) point of your waist and taper in gently with no visible tension on the button. The sleeve should sit just above your hand with about 1 cm of shirt cuff showing.
Your trouser should sit comfortably at your natural waist and should not require a belt to keep them up. The length of the hem should be proportional to the slimness of the leg, but generally it should kiss the top of your shoe.
Side
The collar of your jacket should lay smoothly against the neck. The sleeve head of your jacket should lay smoothly when in a natural stance. There should be an even balance between the front and back length of your jacket. .
Your trouser should have a flattering fit around the leg. This is preferential, but as a rule of thumb it should not be too tight or too loose. The front and back of the waistband should be at even heights (the front will be lower in certain cases).
Back
The back of the jacket should lay cleanly with no horizontal or vertical creases. There should be extra (not excess) drape across the back to accommodate extra movement such as bringing your arms forward. The jacket length should cover the seat of the wearer.
A flattering trouser should fit closely (but not tightly) around the seat as the fabric stretches slightly after wearing. There should be a clean drape all the way down the leg with minimal to no creasing.
Fabric: navigate the world of fabrics with our expertise.
Luxury
From cashmere to vicuna to luxury yet durable wools, we will guide you to some of our favorites.
Efficient
Need a suit quickly? We bulk-manufacture and stock popular fabrics for faster turn around times.
Business
Our high twist 2 ply fabric will keep you crisp and wrinkle free throughout the day.
Linen
We only use long staple linen that softens and doesn’t splinter with time. Explore our blends for wrinkle resistance.
Work horse
Want to beat up on a mid tier suit? We recommend our 130s or 150s in a 4-seasons weight.
Lux dress shirts
Pair the nicest dress shirt fabrics in the world with the Hall Madden expertise in fit.
English
For the suit aficionado who prefers English fabrics over Italian fabrics we have you covered.
Bamboo
Whether you are a vegan or just the cashmere like feel, we have this sustainable fabric in an array of colors.
Hall Madden does it all.
Your classics
Blue | Grey | Black | Brown | Pinstripe | Double breasted | 3 piece | Black tuxedo
Stay warm or beat the heat
Tweed | Linen | Seersucker | Flannel | Corduroy
The 2024 trends
Green | Tan | White | Dusty pink | Light Blue
Craftsmanship: we take pride in our work.
The ‘make’ of the jacket determines the suit’s quality of construction
Throughout the history of suit making, the way we have made jackets changes and develops, bringing with it many different constructions or ‘makes’. From time consuming, handmade jackets with layers of canvas, to machine-made, fast production jackets with fusing. Each has a different level of quality, comfort, durability and cost.
We offer three levels of craftsmanship to accommodate your needs:
The Standard
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Our most popular and default make, the Full Canvas is constructed in the traditional way (details in the History chapter).
To shape the chest of the jacket, the entire front is canvassed with a number of layers made from natural materials interwoven with horsehair. For the best fit and look, it is essential the chest piece molds to the wearer’s chest. Canvas gives and maintains shape, while the horsehair recovers its original shape quickly. The lapel is canvassed too and pad stitched by machine to give it a nice ‘roll’. With each wear, a fully-canvassed suit will conform more to your body.
Just like a new pair of leather shoes, you have to wear the jacket in for it to fit perfectly. With a full-canvassed front, fusing is unnecessary. Without the fusing layer, the jacket will look and feel lighter and more natural, as the fabric will fall and show creases in a natural way.
Pros
• With hardly any fusing, the fabric maintains its natural range of flexibility and movement
• Breathable, lighter and more comfortable
• High durability - even after frequent cleaning
• Drapes naturally and molds to the body to fit better with time
• Nice voluminous shape and roll of the lapel
Handmade
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Our Handmade Full Canvas make has all the qualities of our Traditional Full Canvas suit, but is enriched with more sartorial details and carefully applied handwork for a rich bespoke look and feel.
The name of the make says it all. This jacket is almost fully handmade, with many of the essential elements finished off by hand.
Handwork:
Button attachment, Collar turn back, Flower loop, Bottom facing/hem, Cuff fold finish, Lining at the armhole, Buttonholes, Pick stitching, Under collar attachment, Chest pocket, Lining at the shoulder seam, cuff and hem, Bartacks, Label attachment
See chapter ‘Handwork’ for a detailed explanation and illustration of the above details.
Pros:
• Full of handmade sartorial details
• Rich look and feel
• Exclusive design options available
• Fabric maintains its natural range of flexibility and movement
• Breathable, lighter and more comfortable
• High durability - even after frequent cleaning
• Drapes naturally and moulds to the body to fit better with time
• Nice voluminous shape and roll of the lapel
Made in Italy
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Full Canvas suits from our MIT Hall Madden atelier are sewn without any fusing at all. As is traditional, a full piece of canvas covers the entire front, acting as the interlayer to provide extra support.
For a better fit, canvas is also pad stitched in the collar to ensure a beautifully shaped and less stiff collar. The main advantage of this construction is a softer, suppler feel and a lighter weight that greatly increases comfort. Without the fusing, the fabric keeps its flexibility and natural characteristics. However, the front will display more creasing, especially with lightweight fabrics. This results in a jacket with no movement restriction that will eventually drape over your body shape naturally.
With each wear, a full-canvassed suit will conform more to your body. Just like a new pair of leather shoes, you have to wear the jacket in for it to fit perfectly.
Our Italian tailors will invest more than 40 hours of work in a suit: 30 in the jacket alone. The patterns and the fabric have all been cut by hand, the suit is pressed by hand too - no industrial machinery here. These suits are handmade for the greatest part – It would probably be easier to name the details made by machine.
Handwork:
- Button attachment - Collar turn back - Flower loop - Bottom facing/hem - Cuff fold finish - Lining at the armhole - Buttonholes
Additional HMIT handmade details:
- Gorge line - Pad stitched lapel (optional) - Sleeve insertion - Pick stitching - Under collar attachment - Chest pocket - Lining at the shoulder seam, cuff and hem - Bartacks - Label attachment - Lining everywhere (collar, side vents etc.) - Hanger loop
Pros:
• Highest level of comfort and motion (due to the handmade stitching)
• Beautiful fit and drape (due to hand finishing)
• Highest sartorial level of suit making on the market
• Affordable compared to similar bespoke suits on the market
• Exclusive design options available.